She motivated dishes like photo-perfect cemitas built with springy bread (Mr. Aparicio’s specialty), tart aguachile with slivers of scallops in a tub of leche de tigre, and tacos which might be classic (al pastor, pescado) instead of so classic (vegan tacos arabes made with mushrooms) on housemade sourdough tortillas. El Chingon doesn’t clamor

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